2023 – Delhi, Mathura, Rajasthan, Punjab, Rishikesh – 3 weeks tour
AMSTERDAM 02-03-2023
On the last day of my last trip I had a mission: to get mom to come to India with me! I knew I would have to put a lot of effort into convincing her. It took some effort, but after a lot of deliberation she gave me a resounding yes to come with me. I was given carte blanche to arrange and book everything. Of course I did that with dedication and now the day of our departure has finally arrived! This morning I wake up at 05:00 am. I can’t wait to leave and I’m already an hour and a half early starting! Hopefully I will receive an agreement on my counter offer for the sale of my apartment before departure today or tomorrow upon arrival in Delhi. Once the sale is complete, I will be as free as a bird to travel the world (well through India) and dedicate myself to volunteer work and setting up Heart of India Travel.
At 11:45 am when we are in the car heading to Schiphol, the good news comes: I have sold my apartment for the price I wanted for it. What a feeling of freedom!!!
We say goodbye to Micheal who brought us and everything goes smoothly at Schiphol! Quite strange to have a travel group with me again after 4 years of traveling alone!
The waiting time at Schiphol flies by, you’re busy answering all the kind words and congratulations. How rich it feels to have such thoughtful people around you!
When I arrive in Doha, I look for a smoking shelter as usual. It’s blue from the smoke here. Mom skips a beat, I surrender to my addiction and feel a buzz. Wonderful, another 4 hours and we arrive in Delhi!
DELHI 03-03-2023
As we drive through Delhi I notice that there is much less smog than in 2019. I ask Ranjeet and indeed it is true. They have taken a number of measures to make the city a lot less polluted (including almost all cars that run on petrol instead of diesel). In addition, it strikes me that compared to 2019, the entire modern part of the city is littered with new trees and many flowers. According to Ranjeet, this has to do with the G20 that is going on. They pimped up the whole city for this!
When I arrived at the hotel I discovered that I had forgotten my trolley on the baggage carousel. Well, I always take it into the cabin with me, so I don’t think about it at all anymore. That means we can go back to the airport in no time! Nice start NIC. And Mike reminds me that I have to make sure that mom doesn’t forget anything…
We return to the airport, after 2,5 hours we finally know where we need to be, at least we hope so. Ranjeet and I are standing in the terminal at the arrivals exit. We packed Mom outside and had to leave her collapsed on a bench. Looks like we’ll have to skip the sightseeing. It is now 15:00 PM, an hour’s drive to the hotel and we also have to have lunch.
At 1540 I finally got the trolley back. We are both exhausted and we only want one thing: food! Mom’s first meal is a simple but delicious thali and another snack that will stay with her throughout the trip!
At 17:30 PM we return to the hotel, tired. So we didn’t visit anything today, but we did see the airport from all sides!
On the way to the hotel we couldn’t resist driving past a dark wine shop and getting a beer. But how do you open a bottle? I’ll try with the room key. However, this was without success. Mom has a plan. Just look NIC here in the bathroom door lock. And yes, bottle open, bathroom and we were sprayed. Our room smells like an old pub. We clean and fill our glasses and walk downstairs with them because smoking is required… also in Delhi you are not allowed to drink on public grounds (which I understand). Our glasses are wrapped in napkins and we sit there looking our best. Until mommy starts playing piromancy…
Tomorrow towards Mathura for the first day of Holi celebration!
VRINDAVAN 04-03-2023
The day starts well. We were supposed to leave for Vridavan/Mathura at 0800 and it turned out that the alarm did not go off, so we woke up at 08:40. We slept more than 30 hours a day. Quickly sent Ranjeet a message to let him know that we would be outside within XNUMX minutes. Once we get in the car I can’t find my wallet. Shit, just search the room again. Nothing! Then just take the suitcase out of the car and look in the suitcase in the middle of the street. Yes, there it is! Yesterday I put it in the suitcase in all my tiredness. Well, anyone who thought I was going out with a mess is very wrong because mom has everything in order so far. Not that this is a guarantee for the future, but so far she is doing better than me!
When we arrive in Vrindavan, we have to take a long detour because Holi is already in full swing. Once the car is parked we have to cover the last 500 meters on foot. I take a tuk tuk because the suitcases need to be transported. Winding through the streets and looking around I feel at home.
Holi is already celebrated here. The festival of spring, the transition from old to new. Holi has its origins in India, where castes, social classes, are linked to color. On Holi, Hindus throw different colors of powder into the air: a sign that on this day the caste system has been completely disrupted.
In this region, Athmar Holi is celebrated 4-5 days prior to the Holi festivities of other states. The festival is celebrated here in a peculiar manner in the towns of Nandgaon and Barsana. The towns are located about 42 km from Mathura and are extremely popular for the celebrations during Holi. The natives are known for their interesting way of playing Holi with not only colors but also sticks. Lathmar Holi is a Hindi word that literally translates – ‘Lath’ means stick, ‘mar’ means to hit and together they mean playing Holi with stick and colours. Drinking Thandai (a sweet drink) during Holi seems to be a tradition here.
People full of paint with smiles on their faces, puddles of water colored red by the paint! Mom gets a first impression of the real India. Something that now feels very normal to me is a true culture shock for mom. People who live or sleep along the road, cows who provide themselves with a meal on piles of garbage and not to forget the monkeys that hop around here and which she is terrified of (and so am I!).
When we are smoking in front of the hotel we see a monkey stealing someone’s glasses! He quickly jumps onto a roof and refuses to give it back until he gets a carton of drinks! Too funny to watch!
Before we go into the crowd we go shopping for (Holi) clothes. You can hardly get the paint stains out of your clothes. Once we have bought the clothes we go into the town. We start in a temple where a Guru is waiting! Mom is enjoying, I’m messing with my camera because my settings are lost. If we continue to a place where people are playing Holi, we soon come to crowded, noisy streets. Honking is very common here, but now it is happening very loudly. Mom is getting tired of all this hustle and bustle, so she decides to go back to the hotel. This place is clearly too overwhelming for someone visiting India for the first time! So I’m trying to make some arrangements to change the schedule a bit. Yes, on day 2 already…
In the evenings I obsess over my camera. At 00:30 the setup problems were resolved. Hey hey!
MATHURA 05-03-2023
The alarm goes off at 06:30 am while we are both sound asleep. We only slept 5 hours. We would spend a night in Agra tomorrow. I app the accommodation in Jaipur asking if we can come a day earlier. And yes, they have room! Now I also have more peace because I notice that mom really has to take care of herself… okay Agra will be a bird’s-eye visit, with only the Taj Mahal in the morning.
We arrive early in Mathura. A city known as the birthplace of the Hindu god Krishna. Mathura is one of the seven holy cities of Hinduism. The stretch of the holy Yamuna river that flows along here is lined with 25 ghats.
Before the start of our trip, I had done some research into local specialties and where you can buy them. I ask our driver to take us here. Before we know it, we’ll be eating on the street among the locals!
You could leave me here for hours just looking at the people. Every now and then I have a chat and walk towards the Yamuna river. Here we see that the ashes of a survivor are scattered into the river with the necessary rituals. We are invited to join them and they even say I can take photos! We take another short boat trip to see the Ghats from the water. When she returns to the car, mom discovers that she has lost her glasses. Hehe, finally something goes wrong too! Back to the boat to check if she forgot it there. And yes, there it is. Such a nice set!
After this we drive to the spiritual town of Nandgaon, which is part of the Braja Mandal Parikrama pilgrimage route. We walk through narrow alleys up to the temple where Holi is celebrated. I also get smeared and I enjoy it. It’s nice to see people having so much fun!
We drive back to the hotel to rest for a while, after which I walk with Ranjeet through the city towards the river to enjoy an Arti from the water; Hindu ritual to attend. The city center is even busier than yesterday and I am covered in colored powder. The last part of the walk is quiet and peaceful again with people going about their daily business (mainly drinking tea and chatting with each other).
On the water I am literally punctured by mosquitoes, what hell! The strange thing is that the stings no longer itch after an hour.
I’m back in the room around 20:30 PM and we go to bed early because tomorrow the alarm goes off at 04:00 AM.
AGRA 06-03-2023
We have to get up early this morning. At 5 o’clock we leave for Agra to visit the Taj Mahal. When we arrive there at 6 am it is already quite busy. It would have been more convenient to buy a ticket online because there is already a line. The tickets have doubled in price in 4 years. The entrance now costs 15 euros per person.
Taj Mahal is one of the seven wonders of the world. It dates from the 17th century. Shah Jahan, the fifth ruler of the Mongol Empire, had this beautiful mausoleum built for his favorite wife. The building has therefore become a symbol for love. He had the grave monument built between 1632 and 1648 as the final resting place for his wife.
The Taj Mahal is truly breathtakingly beautiful! We come out at 08:30 am. We drink 2 chai (tea) and 2 coffee for the total price of 80 cents! We then walk towards the car to continue our journey to Jaipur.
I arrive again in Rajasthan, where I started my 2019 month journey through India in 2,5. Nowhere in India is there as much history as in Rajasthan. It is called the land of the kings, the realm of the Maharajas, majestic forts and palaces. In addition, you will also find extensive sand dunes, jungle, colorful saris, beautiful jewelry and a vibrant culture. There are also many festivals here throughout the year, not to mention the delicious food. With this in mind, it can only be fantastic here
Along the way I chat with Ranjeet and he asks me to work with him in the tourism industry when I go to live in India. In this way we could offer Europeans trips at a much cheaper price that are not included in the average travel guide. This seems like a good plan to develop further. Generating some income in addition to volunteer work is a welcome bonus!
On the way we make a stop to visit the Chand Baori, which was built in the 8th century to serve as a huge well.
serve to collect rainwater in this dry state. The well was surrounded by 3500 steps, so that everyone could access the rainwater. In the 18th century, the upper part of Chand Baori was converted into a palace.
At lunchtime we have a hot meal along the road in a local restaurant for 6,50 euros for 3 people, while mom has a Western cappuccino an hour earlier for 2,5 euros (massala chai costs 20 cents). Everything has been going smoothly so far today, I didn’t forget anything, I got up on time and both are in chill mode!
Before we go to the hotel in Jaipur, we drive past Patricka Gate on the outside of the city. It is nothing more than a gate but many people stop there for a selfie because it is so beautiful. Nothing is less true!
When we arrive at the guest house (in the middle of a residential area outside the busy center) I see mom beaming! Yes, this one is completely to her taste. The owner’s core business is designing jewelry and clothing. His designs sell in France for ten times what they cost here (he says). On the ground floor he has a kind of gallery. Three guesses as to where mom will go first… let’s be honest, it’s a beautiful hotel/guest house. We drink a cold beer on the rooftop with a swimming pool and in an hour we go out onto the street for the Holi dedication. A fire is set. We don’t want to miss this!!
JAIPUR 07-03-2023
I slept like a log last night. When I just wake up I go to the rooftop where it is an oasis of peace with a view of the sun that is slowly rising. All I hear is the birdsong. This is enjoyment!
Ranjeet picks me up at 9 am. Let’s celebrate Holi!
The celebration starts at the hotel before departure. We wish each other happy Holi by smearing the most beautiful pastel shades of powder on each other’s faces!
The party we are going to is specially organized by the government for tourists to ensure their safety during the celebration. (Indians, alcohol and white women don’t go well together apparently…) All kinds of performances are also arranged. Let’s check the crowds in a moment and then see if mom can’t just join us. This is a one-time life experience!
I start talking to a French woman who tells me that today she is walking through the city with locals and ending at an orphanage for which she is doing some work. I immediately seize the opportunity to tell her about the key and give her the information. Hopefully something will come of this!
Well done around the party. It was teeming with tourists. This isn’t for me. I want a local experience and not a tourist attraction. I try to capture some locals (the travel agents because other locals are not welcome) and tell Ranjeet that I want to leave and go to a local celebration. According to him, there are none. People celebrate it at each other’s homes and go door to door. Now that my phone has crashed and my mom can’t reach me, I’m going back to the hotel. This is a shame!! Well, at the end of the year I will return to India and will probably really celebrate Holi somewhere next year with some locals. So keep your wits about you and get a few hours of sun!
At 15 p.m. we are picked up for a bite to eat and then we go to a Bollywood movie.
As we wait for Ranjeet in front of the restaurant, a man comes up to me and starts talking to me in broken English. He appears to be drunk. Ranjeet later tells us that he confronted the man and told him to leave me alone. I myself had no problems with that dear man. When we sit down to dinner, he sits at a table diagonally in front of us. At one point he walks up to our table and approaches Ranjeet somewhat aggressively, after which Ranjeet immediately walks downstairs with his phone in his hand. The man behind him. When Ranjeet returns we ask what was going on. It turned out that he had said something very bad about me, after which Ranjeet threatened to call the police. So it seems that Indians end up in jail for a few days if they harass tourists (women). When I ask what he said, Ranjeet says that the man told him that he wanted to fuck me! This is quite an insult to us here. This whole story doesn’t impress me much. Mom sees all kinds of obstacles on the road and fears for my safety (sweet!).
On the way to the temple, Ranjeet tells us more about his faith (Sikhism) and what it stands for. Among other things, the Sikh people are the only ones in India who are allowed to carry a firearms permit for self-defense. This dates back to when the Mongol people tried to conquer India sometime in the 1600s.
According to him, the Sikhs are a very peaceful people. They never attack, only defend themselves and are also very resentful. If you do something to them, sooner or later they will get you back. He addresses the attacks on his people in 1982. I still remember the film I saw about this, it was very moving!
When we are at a temple and I want to take a photo, I discover that the battery is not in the camera and I had just put it in my handbag, so I had no supplies with me. Hey, I thought our last few days went very smoothly…
The bios looks well, how should I describe it? Very special with, according to Ranjeet, very expensive carpet. The local women and children look very well cared for and they have special lighting that comes on 5 minutes before the start of the film.
The sound in the hall is loud, very loud! The film is not special and for the first time I see women in a Bollywood film that are scantily clad. When I look to my right I see mom making funny faces and I know it won’t be long before she says she wants to leave. She lasted 40 minutes, quite an achievement hahaha
JAIPUR 08-03-2023
At 07:30 we drive towards the old part of the city to go first to the Wind Palace (Hawa Mahal, from 1799). Early in the morning the sun shines beautifully here.
What stands out most is the construction. Legend has it that it was built so that the women of the royal household could see the streets without being observed. People didn’t live here. It only served as a lookout post.
The doors of the City Palace open at 0930. The city palace is truly beautiful. The royal family of Jaipur was one of the richest in India. The enormous complex consists of courtyards, gardens and buildings.
The Peacock Gate is very impressive and contains detailed images of peacocks. You will also find a museum, art gallery and exhibitions of royal costumes and ancient Indian weapons.
The blue room is also absolutely worth it. A ticket to visit the entire palace including the private part costs 23 euros per person. Quite an expense by Indian standards, but more than worth it!
In the old city we get a demonstration of Handblock printing, where all the colors used come from natural products such as tamarind and saffron.
We have lunch in the restaurant of a friend of Ranjeet where we once again have excellent food! Then we stop at Maharani Chhatri the royal crematorium which is truly beautiful!
The name pink city as they call Jaipur originated in the 18-19th century, when the then king of Jaipur invited the English king who was his friend. For this occasion, he painted all the buildings in the city pink. He even built a beautiful castle for him.
The color is now more terracotta and that has everything to do with cost savings.
After this we kick around at Fab India, well mom then! I was standing at the cash register to buy my first Indian set, but my card no longer worked. I could have taken cash out of the car but I was done with it so I passed up the purchase. Which I now regret!
Coming back to our tour with guide in the city palace… Mom is known for letting locals rip her off. I usually don’t. I rarely buy anything when I travel. Also this time. But at the end of the tour we are taken inside the palace to the pashmina shovel. Our guide (with beautiful light brown eyes, beautiful white teeth and super friendly) tells us that you can buy everything tax free inside the palace and therefore a lot cheaper than outside the palace. According to him, the current Maharaja has taken care of this. Okay, we’re coming along.
We enter the shop and are helped by a man, so beautiful! Broad build, he also has beautiful eyes, lips, teeth and beautiful big hands) I think we were both sold! I won’t tell you what caught Mom’s eyes (and mine too hihihi) well, we got into it and Mom paid almost double for her scarves compared to the shop we went to afterwards!! She bought no less than 3!! (they are very beautiful and look great on her!)
At the end of the day it starts to rain again, something that has never happened here before this month according to the owner of the guest house!
I’ll have a beer, mom will smuggle her whiskey up to the rooftop as soon as it’s dry. Another wonderful day!
When we have light in the room again around 21 p.m. (the light sometimes goes out here in India) I walk into the bathroom where mom is. And what do I find? A naked mother wrapped in her latest cobalt blue scarf. My god the tears are rolling down my face, what a portrait this is! She walks around our room for a while while I tear myself!!!
JAIPUR 09-03-2023
I wake up at 6 am, mom is still in a deep coma. We leave at 9 am to first make a stop at the Chand Baori Step Well in the city of Amer. This town is more than worth a visit! It is full of old monuments and life seems to be quiet here. (Leave before 10 am, then it will be busier). Ranjeet and I have breakfast and on the way pick up some sweets that mom had asked for.
We then head towards Ranthambore National Park where we will stay 2 nights in a tented camp and make 3 safaris to spot Bengal tigers.
According to Ranjeet, it is not safe to walk around the park yourself because wild animals sometimes roam there! It sometimes happens that old tigers who are no longer able to hunt find their prey in the villages. From animals to sometimes people. He says that if an animal bites a human, the animal will go to prison (the zoo) for the rest of their lives. They do not kill the animal.
When we arrive at the resort we are greeted by an unsympathetic guy. We are taken to the tent that does not look like the one I booked. After a lot of hassle, I got an upgrade. What jerks here! The resort here also looks a bit smaller than the photos I saw on the site. But the deluxe tent looks a lot better than the previous one. There are still some things missing, so I kindly but emphatically request that you supply what is shown in the photos. They are not happy with me. I notice this from how that guy tries to undermine Ranjeet by telling me that he paid less for the room than he invoiced us (it seems logical to me that he takes a commission on that, so I won’t let that discourage me!) .
Ranjeet supports us on all sides. He really takes good care of his guests!!
We order a beer which is served after half an hour of waiting. We are now sitting in the garden with all kinds of birds singing. It is an oasis of peace!
In any case, I will never recommend Tiger Machan!
RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK 10-03-2023
After a bad night (due to singing in a temple that lasted from 22 p.m. to 05 a.m.), we are picked up this morning at 06:30 a.m. to go to Ranthambore National Park, which is one of the largest NPs in northern India.
This was once the hunting ground of the Maharajas from Jaipur. The park has an area of 400 square meters.
The sun has just risen when we arrive at the park (zone 5). It is beautiful here and you hear so many different sounds! To find out whether there are Bengal tigers in the area, the guide listens for warning cries from the monkeys. They keep watch for the other animals from the top of the trees! Unfortunately we hear a cry several times but see no tiger. We do see the footprints of an adult male, but we are too late. The tigers feed on average twice a week and can go 2 days without eating. However, it should not spoil the fun because we see plenty of other animals and even a large owl and the nature is beautiful here. The Banyan tree especially impresses me!
After breakfast we sit in the garden with a chai when there are more and more texting people around me (mom has now gone to put on a bathing suit).
I see the animals coming closer and closer and there are no staff to chase them away. I grab my things and walk away. Within no time, 2 monkeys are sitting on our table, sipping our tea! After filming this scene I quickly walk to the tent to get my camera. When I return, unfortunately they have left!
Unfortunately, lying by the pool doesn’t seem to be an option. Once we get there, the monkeys will come too! They lie down at the edge of the pool to drink the chlorinated water! Then just in the garden with clothes on.
At 12 noon I go with Ranjeet to the fort and temples from the 8th century that are located in the park. From the top I have a beautiful view of the lake.
At 14:30 PM we set off again in search of the tigers (zone 1 now). The best time to spot these is from April to June when it is very hot and dry. The tigers then flock to the lakes en masse. The largest lake is located in zone 2.
We drive around a lot through this part of the park hoping to see tigers. We stop to watch the scene of some monkeys. So cute I capture a little one nursing from the breast. We encounter some more animals until we finally see a tiger. Very cool! Unfortunately, there are a few disturbing factors in the way, but I still manage to capture it. When we leave the park we see a tiger twice more. The driver now really has to press his accelerator deeply to leave the park in time (otherwise he risks losing his license). We are shaken in all directions and arrive at 2:17 PM!
RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK – BUNDI 11-03-2023
We conclude our visit this morning with a final Safari in zone 2. Once again we are ready for departure at 06:30 am. Mom was also dressed a bit warmer this time because she died of the cold yesterday despite the fact that she had wrapped 2 pashminas and a towel around herself and at the last minute she had bought the wrong red fleece hat and put it on the water (Yes, her coat had leaving them in Ranjeet’s car).
The beginning of the zone takes us along the walls of the fortress. They are narrow paths with high rocks on either side. I have the impression that we drive deeper into the park than in the previous zones. At some point we encounter rivers and it becomes wider. It is another beautiful piece of nature!
And yes, we see a tiger and what the heck, he is lying in the grass waiting for the deer to come closer. He slowly creeps towards the spotted deer that are grazing alertly in the middle of the tall grass. We can no longer see the tiger. Until from one moment to the next the animals sprint because the tiger has launched the attack! And yes, he got a bite! He is lying somewhere between the blades of grass so we can barely see him and is starting to eat his breakfast.
On the way back we stop for a photo of the rock formations and are lucky enough to see 2 Stort Kingfisher high in a tree, a very rare species of Kingfisher.
When we are on our way, I will immediately let Ranjeet know which surrounding places I want to go to tomorrow during sunrise. He doesn’t know this Grand Canyon itself and he never actually comes to the place where I want to go. It is an off beat route that I found on a blog by an Indian.
At one point we see two bulls fighting in the middle of the highway. Everyone drives around it or looks at it and lets those two do their thing. The moment I get ready with my camera, they are tired of fighting and are left standing head to head, still in the middle of the highway!
We arrive at our hotel in Bundi, a 400 year old Haveli. The hotel and the room are very attractive, decorated with antiques. From the rooftop you look at the palace, which is almost the same height as the terrace.
Mom continues to read a book while I walk to Bundi Palace, which dates from 1607 and was inhabited by Maharajas until 1948. The Chitrasala Palace from the 18th century is also located within the complex. It’s a good walk up and the palace is beautiful, as is the view from here! When I’m done I pick up mom and the three of us walk through the old town and I enjoy it!! It looks like a miniature of Jodhpur with all the old blue houses.
Bundi is a town full of narrow streets, bazars, blue houses and a temple on every street corner.
The town is known for its Stepwells, no less than 60! Many are no longer in use due to the water shortage in the region. The most impressive is the Raniji-ki-Baori.
Along the way we drink the best masala chai so far, freshly in front of us the herbs are pounded on the concrete with a stone. What makes this chai so delicious is the use of pure Buffalo milk. It gives the tea an enormous creamy taste. We drink it at Krishna tea in the old center. I arrive on the rooftop just in time to see the beautiful sunset! Mom was exhausted from the walk, the last bit which is uphill broke her. When she arrives in the room, she immediately takes a shower!
BUNDI 12-02-2023
My alarm goes off at 04:35 am. We drive about an hour to the Garadia Mohadev temple which is located near the city of Kota. You seem to have a beautiful view here, especially at sunrise and sunset, of the Chambal River.
Once there, it turns out to be a wildlife park where tigers and leopards live. Walking to the temple, which is located 1,5 km from the entrance, is therefore not an option. We have to wait half an hour until 07 am, then the park opens. We pay 14 euros to enter. It is very quiet here and the sun rises slowly.
At the end of the road is a deep gorge through which the river flows with gigantic cliffs on either side! The view is breathtaking, not to mention the beautiful shades of color during the hour!
On the way back we stop at the lake just before the entrance to the city of Bundi.
As I wait outside for Ranjeet, dogs start barking, and within no time I hear and see more and more of them. I shit my pants. No idea why they suddenly bark like that. I’m going to stand on some stairs in a secluded position. I suddenly see that they are chasing away a wild boar that runs past me towards our hotel. Pfff, delicious on an empty stomach!
At one point I ask Ranjeet why there are so few rubbish bins on the street and why people just throw plastic bottles on the street. Apparently this is how they keep the economy going. The poor pick up the plastic and then sell it.
On the way to Barli I see that people are playing Holi in the villages today. Upon inquiry it appears that it will indeed be played here today and tomorrow.
The last hour to Barli we take the tourist route. Every village is barricaded at the entrance by young people. You can only pass by if you give some money. Ranjeet says it is not safe to get out of the car. Holi is more intense here than in the cities.
They will celebrate it tomorrow in Barli.
Still, there are some places where we can stop to take a photo of children playing.
Mom didn’t sleep well last night. Now she’s not feeling well, she appears to have a fever and a pain in her throat, cunt!
Upon arrival at Barli Palace, I first take care of mom. The fever has already gone down a bit, but she doesn’t feel well so she crawls into bed.
I am guided through this beautiful palace from 1600 and inhabited by the Maharajas until 2007. Then relax by the pool!
At the end of the afternoon I go into the village. Ranjeet’s advice was to go with someone. However, I don’t like that at all and decide to go alone. And yes, contact with people. Sometimes just eye contact, sometimes some poor exchanges in English. Almost all of them ask to be photographed or are okay with me asking. For me, the smaller non-touristy villages are truly India at its best!!
When I come back, mom has just woken up. Still not tasty. Tomorrow we have a longer drive that we really have to make because we will be closer to Delhi, if this proves necessary. We agree that if necessary, we will skip the other destinations and stay there. Hopefully it gives her some peace!
After dinner I started talking to the owners of the hotel and we soon came to the key of education. And it turns out, they do a lot of charity and are very enthusiastic about the training. They want to help in every way and possibly even provide the training themselves and inspire top people in other cities! I receive his email and telephone number, he receives more information from me on paper.
What a wonderful end to the day!
NAWALGRAH 13-03-2023
We leave today at 08:30 am because they are going to celebrate Holi here and Ranjeet is afraid that his car will be covered in powder. It is also quite a drive to Nawalgarh
There is a Neem tree in the courtyard of the palace. The leaves and branches are used in Ayurvedic traditions. Drinking the pressed leaves is said to have a blood purifying function. The tree is big and impressive!
On the way we see a blue bull, the largest antelope species. These only occur in India. We had already seen them in the park.
When we arrive in Nawalgarh we stop at the hospital so that mom can be examined. Very bizarre how this works here. The regular hospitals are free. There are huge lines in front of the doors and sick people are very close to each other. You even see people sitting on the floor with sick children in their arms. They don’t have a waiting room here. People press in to get a consultation with the doctor and his treatment room is filled with people. There is no privacy here at all! As a foreigner, Mom gets priority. This feels very mixed, I don’t want us to get to the front but we have nothing to say. I see the looks of people who have been waiting longer and completely understand their frustration! The doctor listens to our lungs and we are prescribed antibiotics. Within a few minutes we are outside and buy the medicines.
Today we sleep in a beautiful haveli about 10 km from Nawalgarh.
The North of Rajastan (Shekhawati) is much less visited than other parts of the state. The region is known for its beautifully painted havelis. These are mainly found in small towns connected by narrow roads that run through the deserted countryside north of Jaipur. You will be amazed when you drive through it!
At the end of the afternoon I go to Dundlod with Ranjeet, where I want to admire the Marwari horses. I had received via this address. The Marwari is a rare breed of horse from the Indian region of Marwar in the state of Rajasthan. In the past, the Marwari was mainly known as an excellent war horse. A striking feature of the breed is the typical, inwardly curled, small ears.
After some searching and asking, we arrive at Bonnie’s. One of the most renowned horse breeders in Rajasthan. His wife from the US, who is called the horse lady, has taught the locals how to treat the animals differently (more gently).
When we get there it turns out that artificial insemination is just about to be started. We get to experience the whole scene. Very special and it is intense! As soon as the stallions come near the mares, they seem to run wild. I feel sorry for the mare. No fewer than three will pass over it! (One has the privilege of penetration, the remaining two are fooled). The other stallions stand there and watch!
JHUNJHUNUN 14-03-2023
This morning I agreed with Ranjeet at 07:30 am to go to Nawalgarh. Because I wake up early, I walk into the village around 06:30 am. The sun is just rising and within half an hour some Havelis are beautifully illuminated by the sun. The sand, which is found in almost every street, also turns beautiful gold. The temperature is wonderful and the village is slowly awakening. I’m enjoying!
Nawalgarh is a heritage city and is called the Open Air Gallery. There is art everywhere. The havelis boast beautifully carved wooden gates and painted walls. I am immediately impressed by this town. It is pleasant and clean compared to other villages. The people are super friendly, don’t push themselves and you pay the same price for your merchandise here as the locals. This place is also strategically located, with direct train and bus connections to major cities and various tourist spots in Rajasthan. I soon started thinking about staying here longer!
My guide Bablu tells about a Frenchwoman who is married here to an Indian, who does good business in tourism here. When I come back next time he will put me in touch with her.
After visiting the various havelis, we walk through the car-free and cozy bazar where we drink Chai, consume sugar cane juice and I eat a delicious samosa. He knows the best street food stalls here. He tells anyone who will listen that I am going to come back and stay here for a longer period of time. I am immediately invited to a wedding and to dinner at people’s homes.
I get back to the hotel around 13 p.m. and chill with mom at the pool.
We are picked up around 1630 and go to Mandawa. Most havelis here are well maintained, so old paintings are still clearly visible. The paintings show different themes, varying by the time in which they were made. There are paintings of hunting men and local legends to images of the first trains and gramophones. The business people who worked in the big cities had this painted to give the people in the smaller towns an idea of what the new inventions looked like. Many of the larger houses have been renovated and transformed into hotels, but there is still so much empty. The houses have been in the family for generations and people do not want to part with them, so they remain empty. Sometimes maintained by people who let them live in them. When you enter such a hotel you feel like you are in a completely different world. The walls are full of paintings and you almost hit your head on the gigantic chandeliers.
One of the most important havelis in Mandawa is the Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli. This haveli has a religious image of Indra Dev on an elephant, and Shiva. The Goenka Double haveli is a haveli with two gates, which are decorated with camels, elephants and horses.
The Mumruria haveli features images of a train, in addition to traditional images of gods and elephants, among others. The Jhunjhunwala is also worth a visit, mainly because parts of it are painted in gold leaf. After the tour we will have a bite to eat in the town. We meet a nice French couple there and have a nice time! Back at the hotel there is some kind of party going on again. A noise that is not normal!!
JHUNJHUNUN 15-03-2023
Ranjeet and I drive early towards Mahansar. What is striking in this region is that all villages look somewhat similar. I have now seen the havelis. Then we visit the town of Ramgarh. I had read about this in a blog by an Indian. I don’t think Ranjeet knew it either. Here we view a beautiful Chatriya, a Hindi crematorium that is 180 years old.
On the way back, Ranjeet says that he now knows my tastes and that this trip does not fully meet my wishes, which is also true. I show him some pictures of the style of travel (photography) I am looking for. I like the offbeat places where there are not many or no tourists. Around 12:30 I’m back at the hotel where mom is relaxing by the pool. I decide not to go out again this afternoon and to stay by the pool.
PATIAL 16-03-2023
Today we have a long drive ahead of us because we previously adjusted the itinerary a bit because mom was not feeling well. Fortunately, she is feeling better today and can sleep 6 hours in the car if necessary.
Our destination today is Patiala in the state of Punjab.
Patiala is considered by Lonely Planet to be one of Punjab’s best-kept secrets. It was once the capital of an independent Sikh state ruled by an extravagant family of Maharajas.
The city contains what appear to be ancient marketplaces and crumbling fortresses that hint at past glory.
We visit the old city, the bazar and take a “Heritage” walk around Adalat Bazar. Of course I had also researched the specialties here and where you can eat them.
So we are going to eat at the food library, which is completely deserted. Still, we eat well there.
When I walk through the city with Ranjeet I indeed see a city with much far-reaching glory. The fort is beautiful and huge. Unfortunately not open for tourism.
On the way we walk past a kind of spice factory. The owner shows us how the whole process works. Later we see how scarves are matched to the exact colors of the dress. The man does this with powders and boils them in the colored water. The scarf will eventually have 3 colors! Very clever how they do this and they do it with precision!
A little later we see a young man cycling through the streets and how he makes popsicles to order from the residents, a kind of home delivery. Nice to see how people still make all kinds of things here in an old-fashioned way! All in all, for me a city that is not worth a detour.
AMRITSAR 17-03-2023
Our last week has arrived. How time flies! Before leaving Patiāla we visit the Sikh temple where everyone can eat and stay for free. They even have private rooms for families and it seems to be much cleaner than a (cheaper) guesthouse. Ranjeet likes staying here.
Today we drive to Amritsar, known for the Golden Temple.
The temple called Sri Harmandir Sahib is the most important pilgrimage site for the Sikh. The temple stands for brotherhood and equality and here too, everyone who comes there can eat and sleep for free, as long as you take off your shoes and socks and cover your head. Everything is peaceful within the walls of the complex. Visitors bathe in the holy water, eat in the busy halls. We visit the temple in the evening because it is beautifully illuminated. Apparently you have to stand in line for 2 to 3 hours to get in, so I don’t know yet whether I will do that. But first we drive to the border crossing with Pakistan to attend the Border Ceremony. This border bears the name Wagah.
Wagah is the only land border crossing between India and Pakistan, 30 km from Amritsar, and a shared city since 1947, the western part is in Pakistan and the eastern part in India.
The Wagah border is officially closed every day. In India and Pakistan, soldiers close the gates and take down the flags. Before the border ceremony begins, women dance at the bottom of the stands. It is a very impressive and noisy scene!
In the evening we have a bite to eat at Brothers Dhaba, which is beautifully located in the heritage part of the city and is full of locals.
After dinner we walk the heritage walk on the way to the golden temple. Of course we don’t have anything with us to cover our heads. A lady sees it and walks towards us. She tells us that we can buy wipes further down the road for next to nothing. She walks with us and helps us buy them and even tie the cloths on our heads. The typical friendliness of the Indians! As we approach the temple I am amazed. I have rarely seen something so beautiful! Unfortunately, my tripod was not allowed, so I tried to capture it handheld as best I could. It also had to be done quickly because you are only allowed to take photos here with a phone..
AMRITSAR 18-03-2023
After breakfast we walk the route towards the temple again. On the way we stop at Jallianwala Bagh Memorial. This monument was built to commemorate the massacre that took place here in 1919. The British Indian army then shot dead 379 unarmed people who were demonstrating for an independent India.
All morning we don’t do much more than people watch and shop. Mommy is having a great time!
Later I go out for lens caps and around 16 p.m. we go to Ranjeet’s friends, 30 km from Amritsar, where we have been invited for dinner.
When we arrive we first walk with Ranjeet and two of his friends who live in the village. About 1000 people live here and everyone knows each other. Tourists have never seen the children. Within no time you see people looking around the corner and we have about 20 giggling children following us. A few of them make funny faces and when I turn around I join them exuberantly. Now the fun can’t stop!
We arrive at the family of Ranjeet’s friend, and as a guest you will be completely pampered. At the harbor blow you will be offered something! The older people (from about 22 years old) do not speak English, the young people do. The conversation gets off to a slow start and we just sit and sit. All focused on the young girl of 2. Happy with the distraction because I feel quite uncomfortable. We are bitten by the mosquitoes, which makes the family feel uncomfortable again and try everything to drive them away!
After sitting awkwardly for 3 hours we go to dinner, well the man of the house, Ranjeet, mom and me. The younger generation cooks, the lady of the house conducts. The food is simple and tastes fantastic! At 20:45 PM we drive towards Amritsar again.
CHANDIGRAH 19-03-2023
This morning the internet is down. When I inquire at the reception, it turns out that there are some political issues going on in Punjab, as a result of which the government has thrown out the internet throughout the state. They can’t tell me what the issues are.
Ranjeet knows more about this. It would involve the arrest of a political extremist
At 07:30 we set course for Chandigarh. The roadside restaurants are very noticeable here in Punjab. They are very luxurious and very large with a main restaurant with food stalls on either side. The people who stop here also stand out, some even better dressed than others. It’s a feast for the eyes!
When we drive through the toll gates, there are people in front of our car on both the left and right of us handing out food, free of charge according to Ranjeet. A custom in Punjab that I had not noticed before. You also come across wrong-way drivers with some regularity (throughout India) and no one really seems to be surprised by this!
Chandigarh has a unique status by being the capital of two Indian states (Punjab and Haryana). The city is known as one of the best experiments in urban planning and modern architecture in India in the twentieth century. The city was designed by Swiss-French designer Le Corbusier and is one of the first planned cities in India. The streets are clean and has lots of parks! It is the only city in India where there are cycle paths. You even see bicycle sheds, a western-looking city. It is even the 3rd cleanest city in India, much to mom’s delight!
It is grandly designed, no stalls where you can buy anything and everything, but a mega open-air shopping complex with many (real) shops. When we see it we are actually ready. Too many shops, which gives me a kind of claustrophobia despite the spacious layout. We’ll be out of there in no time.
There are 2 sights in the city:
The Nekchand Rock Garden, which Le Corbusier started designing this park as a hobby in 1957. It is spread over 40 hectares and you will find more than 5.000 sculptures here. All sculptures are made from different types of industrial and municipal waste. It is beautiful to see and the locals come here to chill with their children. So it is also very busy!
We also visit the Capitol Complex. It is on the world heritage list, although I don’t quite understand why. His vision is well conceived, but I don’t think the monuments are that special.
It is said to be Le Corbusier’s most spectacular work, which makes Chandigarh unique from other places in India. He conceived the Chandigarh master plan as analogous to the human body. He proposed that the city should have a head (the Capitol complex, Sector-1), heart (the city center, Sector-17), lungs (the gardens and the leisure valley), mind (cultural and educational institutions), the circulatory system (road network ) and the intestines (the Industrial area). The concept of the city is based on four main functions: living, working, care for body and mind and circulation. I think it’s all beautifully thought out, the Indians even dream of living here and I don’t think anything of it!
When we’re done with the sightseeing, we buy a beer on the way to the hotel. There is nowhere to sit outside the hotel, so we walk to the park further away. Drinking a beer in the park has to be done secretly because it is not allowed, which only makes it more fun for us. We sit on a bench, with our can in the bag and take sips, looking around to see if there are any police in the area (they are on every street corner with machine guns under their arms)! According to Ranjeet, mainly rich people live here.
It’s fun to watch the teenagers playing sports here. The houses are also huge and quite modern. Everything here seems ordered and under control. It’s not my city, I miss the friendliness of the people here and the chaos that you find everywhere else in India!
We’re going for a massage at 20 p.m., I’m looking forward to this!!
RISHIKESH 20-03-2023
My God, what could have been wonderful relaxation after a massage turned out dramatically different for mom. She is deathly ill. She spits and spits and it comes out from underneath too. She feels bad! Where does this come from; We ate exactly the same except for the grapes. I think this is so bad for her, really one setback after another! She’s been busy all night. Now we have a long ride ahead of us today.
When we are almost at Rishikesh, mom starts vomiting some bile again. When we arrive at the hotel, we are also unpleasantly surprised. The hotel looked a lot better on the internet. We can get a free upgrade to the suite but this doesn’t look good either. Quickly check booking to see if you can find a nicer hotel on this rainy day!
I see a hotel, it costs almost double than the hotel we are in now (which already costs 90 euros per night)
I ask Ranjeet to call and negotiate the price. In the end we get the superior room with a view of the Ganga river and the mountains for 510 Euro for three nights instead of 710 Euro. All meals are included as well as all kinds of yoga classes, visits to an Ayurvedic doctor and a few other things. What I overlooked is that it is a smoke-free hotel. And just now that we have a lovely balcony (for the first time!)
I’m having trouble with my period too, but also some cramps. Fortunately not as intense as mom. She goes to sleep for a while, I walk past the Ayurvedic doctor. She prescribes me some medication to help me get through the menopause and reduce blood loss. I also receive nutritional advice and she recommended a massage using specific oils that match my complaints.
Then I take a walk along the Ganga. Even a dog seems to enjoy the peace and quiet and the view of the mountains and the Ganges! It is an oasis of peace here, 6 km outside the center. I like it, mom is really happy!
RISHIKESH 21-03-2023
Last night I took over from mom. Going to the toilet every 2 hours, my intestines must have been cleaned by now?! Mom, on the other hand, slept like a baby from 21 p.m. to 06 a.m. It’s raining quite a bit when we wake up, but that doesn’t spoil the fun because I have a beautiful view of the river from our balcony. The mist and sound of the rain is soothing!
It is a wonderfully relaxed day. We visit the doctor and participate in a Pranayama & Om Chanting session. These are exercises to improve the energy flow in your body. During the exercises I can hardly contain my laughter when I look at mom who doesn’t seem to understand anything. Her coordination is truly a disaster! Afterwards mom goes for a massage, I have to wait a little longer so chill out on our balcony, it’s still raining!
The massage was fantastic! Then go outside for a while. I drive with Ranjeet to the center to attend an Arti at the temple of the Parmath Niketan ashram, where the light falls beautifully during sunset! You first have to walk across a very long bridge (Ram bridge) to get there. All ashrams are also located on this side of the river. I enjoy it here. It is teeming with people, there are no cars, there are cows walking and everywhere you see food stalls next to shops! Unfortunately no street food for me today. This is typically one of those places where I can wander around for hours and even days. There is plenty to do here! From seeing pilgrims wandering around, people performing rituals, yoga courses to rafting, trekking past villages and waterfalls. A wonderful place! Unfortunately I can’t last more than 2 hours. My stomach starts to rumble again and it takes 40 minutes before we get back to the hotel. Luckily I made it!
Enjoy a nice snack again (dry rice while there is a delicious buffet available!!)
RISHIKESH 22-03-2023
Penultimate day again. Slept well, both of you.
When I wake up I don’t feel 100% yet and it is dry this morning. I therefore decide not to go to Mussoorie but to continue exploring Rishikesh. I don’t feel fit enough to go on a trek yet. I’m annoyed about this! Thanks to the sale of the loft, I now know that I will simply come back to this region at a later date!
We walk to the other side of the river via the Ganki bridge.
The intention is that we start with a visit to the Maharishi Mahesh yogi Ashram of the famous Maharishi Mahesh Yogi who started the Transcendental Meditation movement. In 1968 the ashram became famous and put Rishikesh on the world map when The Beatles stayed here and wrote the lyrics to the album White. When we arrive there it turns out to be in a National Park that only opens at 10 am. So we decide to take a walk along the Ganges. We see many pilgrims on their way to the temples to pray and then receive food. After 2 hours of walking I feel that I am getting weak on my legs so we decide to skip the ashram. During the walk I regularly see mom clinging to Ranjeet’s arm or making side jumps. She’s terrified of cows hahaha
When we return to the hotel we will rest by the pool for a few hours. We have to renovate some things, the beds are equipped with screens against the sun or they are in the shade. We take off the screens, the girl at security looks at us in surprise! Mom’s fear of cows spills over into her fear of the monkeys (which are not there now!!)
We’re not doing much else today. Pack suitcases (which is quite a task for mom hihi) and we do a 5-hour show on a bench on the quay where at one point we spot 2 bathing wild elephants on the other side of the river. We sit here with a lovely view of the water and the mountains and look back on our 3 weeks in India! When we get to the room we both throw ourselves on our bed! Long day and night tomorrow!
DELHI 23-03-2023
I’m enjoying my last morning in India. The sun is shining on our balcony and the temperature is very pleasant! The staff is busy cleaning the terraces at 7 am. Everything looks spic and span! If I take a closer look at one of the employees while doing his work, I see that he collects dirt in his pockets and then throws it over the fence into the street. The streets are then swept clean by other people (women). It’s special how this works in India!
We set course for Delhi where we will visit 2 tourist spots and then end with dinner in the Indian Accent restaurant of the Lodhi hotel. The restaurant is on the top 100 best restaurants in the world!
When we arrive in Delhi after a 4-hour drive, we see something that looks like a mountain. I suspect this is one of those garbage mountains I once saw on TV. This is also true when asked. The mountain is immense, hundreds of crows fly above the mountain, there are tractors and cranes on it and many houses around it. The poor people who live here, I can imagine that it must stink enormously! I open the car window but not to check. The plastic is recycled after which the mountain is turned into a garden. Everything is possible in India!
We have lunch in a lovely tent near the Khan market in south Delhi. This seems to be the place to be for the upper class of Delhi. You can also see this in expensive parked cars and the prices in the eateries. We both eat a delicious sandwich. Still nice to eat something Western again!
After lunch we first visit the Humayan Tomb. It was built in the 16th century by Haji Begum, the eldest (Persian) wife of Mughal Emperor Humayan. This makes the Humayan Tomb a special and unique mix of both Persian and Mughal architectural styles. The Humayan Tomb strongly influenced the construction of the Taj Mahal.
Then we drive to the Lotus temple. It is made of white marble and the temple belongs to the Bahai faith. This faith proclaims the unity of all people and religions. Everyone is welcome to pray there. I had read on Google that it is most beautiful after sunset when the temple is illuminated. Unfortunately, the temple is closed. For the most beautiful light on the temple, it is best to go early in the morning. There are many mini orange trees in the garden. The locals jump over the fences to pick the oranges, after which they are chased away by security. The people are having a lot of fun and I’m enjoying the scene!
I try to walk around and photograph it from the other side, unfortunately there are high fences everywhere. After visiting this peaceful place, I am confronted with the harsh reality that India also consists of. I see a girl, 5 years old at most, on the street. She is wearing make-up, a sort of costume and has peacock feathers in her hand (brings good luck). She tries to persuade people to take a picture with her for a fee. I also see children who are sent onto the streets by their mothers to beg.
Mom’s energy is running out and we still have a while to go, so we decide to settle down on a terrace somewhere while waiting for our closing time for dinner.
Ranjeet takes us to Hauz khas village at lama kitchen, a single tent with a view of a fort and lake, an attractive spot!
When we sit in the restaurant and see the menu, we decide to go for the 6-course dinner with a matching wine arrangement. We eat really well and mom clearly enjoys the appearance and quality of the food. That makes me enjoy it all the more. I couldn’t have imagined a better ending to this trip!