2024 – 10 Days of holi in Rajasthan
Vrindavan, Barsana,Nandgaon
Lathmar Holi, a special Holi celebration in the villages of Barsana and Nandgaon!
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16-03-2024 Jaipur -Agra – Vrindavan
This morning I leave for Vrindavan to celebrate 10 days of Holi, with the highlight for me being the celebration of Lathmar Holi in Barsana and Nandgaon. The day after tomorrow Lathmar holi starts in Barsana.
Lathmar Holi is celebrated in 2 days and 2 different villages.
On the first day, the men from Nandgaon come to Barsana. They plan to take over Shri Radhikaji’s temple. But the women of Barsana hesitate to allow them to do so. They resist them with bamboo sticks.
The men cannot strike back. All they can do is splash colors on the women. The men who get caught are quite unhappy. The men are forced to dress in women’s clothes, apply cosmetics and dance like ladies in front of everyone.
This is embarrassing for them, but others sometimes laugh about it too. However, everything is done in the right spirit. It’s a mock battle, and both the victors and the vanquished are enjoying everything to the fullest. Legend has it that Lord Krishna received similar treatment from the gopis.
The next day the exact opposite happens. The men of Barsana drench the women of Nandgaon and the air reverberates with sacred songs on the occasion of Holi. These songs, known as Hori, are based on the conversations between Krishna and Radha.
It feels a bit strange to leave Kawa guesthouse. After 2 months it still feels like home here, despite the fact that the owner has regularly crossed borders. The manager Kamal made up for a lot and still gave a feeling of safety! I also think the town of Amer is a wonderful place. It is steeped in culture, old buildings and the atmosphere is friendly!
Anyway, there is a time to come and a time to go. This morning I take the train to Agra where I am picked up by Rajesh to drive to Vrindavan.
I was allowed to leave some of my luggage with Kamal and I am still packed and ready at the Perón, waiting for my train.
Actually catching the train is still a bit of a challenge. I am ready half an hour before time for the correct wagon according to the signs. When the train arrives and I look around, I can’t imagine that most of the people standing next to me are traveling in AC class. And it turns out, the signs are wrong. Fortunately, there are a few foreign girls next to me with their driver. I ask him for my wagon number and he says it’s that way. The train has already stopped and they don’t stay at the stations for long. We start running. The train is so long, it never ends! Sometimes I have to slow down the running because I can barely get any air from running with my 3 bags and a trolley. I arrive at my carriage just in time, one of the last on the train, and I plop down on my seat. I think I need 5 minutes to catch my breath again but… we are on our way to Agra!
During the entire 4 hour trip I was busy sorting out photos from the last week. Before I know it we are there and Rajesh is waiting for me on the Perón, so sweet! We drive to Vrindavan around 2 hours. His car is big, just like him, a truck!
We had a great time along the way, just like last time. We chat about anything and everything. It feels very relaxed! As soon as we stop somewhere and talk to locals, they think Rajesh is my guide. We agree that from now on he will not concern himself with prices and negotiating. His smile is so gentle (his character too, by the way) that he pays an even higher price than the tourists!
We arrive at 15:45 PM. Just like last year, it is very busy around the town and roads are closed off. He arranges everything, very nice!
Because the road is closed, we have to pass through small villages with very narrow streets that we can barely drive through. When a water tank is supplying water to supply the local houses we get stuck. After half an hour I go out for a smoke. When I return, Rajesh has advanced a few meters. It is now on an even narrower part. I can’t just get into the car. I see a wall on the side, so I decide to climb the wall and get into the car through the window. I throw my bag, shoes and glasses in the car and swing myself inside. You should have seen the faces of the locals. R is in stitches and thinks it should be filmed but he’s too late!
At 1730 we finally reach the apartment, a typical middle-class Indian event. Barely clean to the eye, the cupboards empty except for 2 coffee cups, 2 beds and a balcony without chairs and a non-smoking complex. Well great!
Once we have dropped off the stuff, we head towards the center. The tuk tuk takes a detour because the traffic to the center is completely stuck. Bumping along unpaved paths to the town and we are quite shaken! As soon as we get out of the tuk tuk, 3 ladies stand around us who want to press a Krishna stamp in orange and yellow on our foreheads. If I say no they both accept it. Rajesh’s no to that doesn’t really seem to get across and despite his protestations he gets 3 stamps on his face! I can’t recover anymore, he’s really too sweet!
Holi 17-03-2024 Barsana
We start the day by wrapping our camera with plastic wrap and a cup of coffee. At 07:30 AM we drive to Barsana where at 16:00 PM where The Holi festivities in Braj begin with Barsana’s famous Laddu Mar Holi where devotees line up at the Shriji temple and wait to receive the laddoos (sweets) delivered by priests from the roof of the temple is thrown. The people then throw laddos at each other, which symbolizes the Gopis’ playful teasing of Lord Krishna.
We arrive there at 08:30 am and it is already quite busy. We park the car 2 km from the village and continue on foot. Along the way we see a tut with one of India’s greatest gurus. Red carpets are laid out in front of him the entire way, which causes the necessary stress for the helpers. Hundreds of people walk with him and recite chants.
When we arrive, people are already busy celebrating Holi. People smear each other with bright colors or spray colored water on each other and shout radhe radhe (a greeting that is used for many purposes). As we walk through the village a very cute little boy walks towards me. He asks for something but I don’t understand him. R translates as he continues to pull my arm for a long time. He wants a spray can. When I look into those cute eyes I can’t refuse him. I also buy some powder. The little boy is very happy and so am I!
We blend in with the crowd, try to take some pictures from a distance and also enjoy the festivities such as dance performances by passers-by to the music that is being played.
Around 12 o’clock we walk towards the temple, we think we will be early, but that is not the case. At first we walk up in a relaxed manner, but soon it gets stuck and we are pressed against each other. Every now and then you see someone become unwell and faint. After 2 hours we still have an hour to go, it’s getting hotter, people take side paths and then merge again, so we don’t make any progress. As soon as I start to get claustrophobic thoughts, I manage to talk myself back into the right direction, but at a certain point I make the decision not to walk to the temple after all. I feel my blood pressure is a bit low and have barely eaten anything today. Luckily R doesn’t mind either, we’ll just go back tomorrow at 6am!
Meanwhile, my camera is overheating and there is a kind of pink glow on the photos I take. So time to go.
When we are almost back in Vrindavan we stop for a bite to eat. We meet the guests again who wanted a selfie in the afternoon. And of course this could not be missed now. They were completely polished again, I am still covered in colors!
18-03-2024 Today is the day of Lathmar Holi celebration.
The Hurriyares of Nandgaon reach Priya Kund in the afternoon to play Lathmar Holi where they are welcomed by the people of Barsana. On this occasion they serve cold thandai of cannabis. The residents of both villages go to the Ladliji temple, where a joint chant of Goswami’s from Barsana and Nandgaon takes place. After the community singing, the Rangili enter Gali. Where the women of Barsana prepare with sticks in their hands to welcome the men from Barsana. From Rangili Gali Huriyaris start throwing lathis on Huriyars and Huriyaris deftly defend themselves carrying the lathi blows on their shields.
When we arrive, an hour earlier than yesterday, it is already quite busy and it is also more intense than yesterday. Of course, as a tourist I am screwed! I get buckets of water poured over me and I have all the colors of the rainbow on my face today! My bags and even my camera also had a hard time! But it’s fun and I enjoy it. Everything happens with a smile and in a pleasant manner, except when you get into a traffic jam. Then you will literally be crushed!
I often hide behind R or hold on to his shirt so as not to fall over, it really is a madhouse and sometimes I think it’s a shame that I can’t throw colors myself because I have my cameras with me. Next year I’m really going to dedicate 1 day to spreading!!
A tradition during Holi is to consume Bhaang lassie (yogurt drink with marijuana) that is specially prepared for this occasion.
Bhang is considered a spiritual drink and is often used in religious ceremonies. It is a traditional drink consumed during Holi celebrations in India. The use of bhang during Holi dates back to ancient times and is an integral part of the festival.
I’m thinking about trying it, but I also find it a bit scary because I have no idea how I will react to this and I also like to keep myself extra sharp when I know that many people are under the influence. Yet it challenges me when I write my report. Who knows, maybe I’ll taste it sometime this week… or next year…
The Lathmar celebration only starts at 16 pm,”. Until then, we will stand in the same place for a long time in the hope of shooting that one perfect shot. When I have had a bucket thrown over me three times and one squirt of paint after another is thrown at me, I decide to disguise myself. I put a scarf on my head which also helps with all that paint on my hair.
Just as the Indians mesmerize me, I apparently mesmerize the local photographers. One after another who has their lens pointed at me or for whom I have to look into the lens. Oh well, it remains a win-win situation hihi
I can’t see the real Lathmar celebration clearly, I’m too small and unfortunately I didn’t manage to get a good spot from above! We have to do this better next year!
At 18 p.m. we have been on the road for 11 hours and we are heading home. When we walk to the car we see women hitting the men with bamboo sticks as a sign of flirting. I think it’s quite tough, but the locals love it. Oh well, to each their own…when I take a shower in the evening I see that my body also has a beautiful play of colors. My light pink painted nails are colored from dark pink to blue to some toenails lilac. It looks pretty cool! My soles can’t be cleaned, my underpants come off with pink paint when I wash them, not to mention my bra has every color in the rainbow!
All in all, another fantastic day full of impressions and lots of fun!
19-03-2024 Shri Nand Baba temple Lathmar Holi, Nandgaon
Around 12 noon we drive towards Nandgaon for another afternoon Holi celebration.
When we get there it doesn’t seem too busy. Once we arrive and walk towards the temple, it becomes busier and we are not allowed to enter the street towards the temple. T asks around where I should be. I see a photographer and decide to take matters into my own hands. I ask him where we should be and he tells me in sign language that I have to wait and walk with him because otherwise we won’t get in. We are admitted for a fee, well that’s what we thought. If we want to climb the stairs to the roof where you have a view of the temple site, we are not allowed. I am literally pushed against the wall but refuse to leave when the police tell me to.
R is at the bottom of the stairs, he had not squeezed in. Eventually I get in, R doesn’t.
When I get to the top it is also very busy there with people with cameras in their hands and everyone is pushing and pushing to get a spot at the front. I walk with the photographer I met earlier for a while. A nice man who just takes me along. After a while I decide to go my own way and not to go for the best spot but more to the side where I see a small space where I just fit in.
I get talking to a few locals. They show the huge pots filled with water and flowers that give off a green color. The tradition is to pour this on the people of Barsana as they pass by. We chat a bit between taking photos and I am invited to join people for dinner after the party. They also give me a cup so that I can throw some of the mess down. The (pretty good looking) young man gives me his number and tells me to call him if I want to accept the invitation.
They also advise me to stay until the villagers of Barsana arrive. Then the gate opens and indeed what a party and what craziness! They advise me not to go down for close ups because it is so busy that on the one hand you can hardly get air and on the other hand you are crushed.
I follow their advice but point it out. When I decide to leave towards the end, I try to find a way where I don’t get a bucket of that green goo all over me and I succeed.
At the exit of the temple I meet the young men again. They tell me to walk with them, they say they can take the short route. They advise me to hold on to the railings because here too people are crushed and it is extremely slippery. They make the road safe for me by surrounding me, so super sweet! Eventually they go to the place where lathmar Holi is celebrated, but I see the crowd and decide to take the other exit where I also have a great time. When I arrive downstairs I meet R again. He points out to me a man who has used too much, he lies on the street as if he were dead for pampers! One after another asks me to take pictures of them, so I dutifully do so and I enjoy it!
When R and I are drinking sugar cane juice on the street, an old lady comes up to me. She says something that I don’t understand. She has sweet eyes and a soft appearance. She protects me from powder good people throw on me and I melt. I think that’s so sweet! When I offer her a drink she refuses it, but she does want money. I rarely give money to people but I give her something. She stays with us the entire time. She is small and constantly looks up into my eyes. When we walk back to the car, she walks the 2,5 km to the car with us. She has really gotten into the swing of things and we walk hand in hand. Every now and then she touches my face, gives me a pat on my face. I find her so adorable! I let myself believe for a moment that this is all serious and enjoy our time together! Bystanders (who probably know her) see us walking and are in stitches…
When we drink a Chai near the parking lot, the monkey comes out of her sleeve, she asks for money to support the poor haha. We will not go into this.
Around 19:00 PM we drive back to Vrindavan and drop the old lady (Maya) at her home. Had another great day!
21-03-2024 Vrindavan
Yesterday we returned to the apartment after a short walk towards the city center. We both don’t feel well, a bit like flu. After a decent night’s sleep I feel pretty okay, R is still sick so I stay at home and I go out alone in my new Holi outfit, which I sweat in quite quickly because it is so synthetic!
It is a lot quieter here than yesterday and I don’t see much playing with the colored powder. My plan is to visit the Prem Mandir temple, but I can’t get there with my camera. So I walk further to the Iskcon temple where I had already been last year and towards the Keshi ghat, which is also familiar to me. I don’t really think there is an atmosphere here, except for a temple where people play with powder and dance to the drums of a few men. I watch with fascination how smoothly and sensually the Indians dance. It is a pleasure for the eyes!
However, it is a diverse audience that comes here. From saints to their followers to people who come here to celebrate Holi.
Around 15 p.m. I walk back to the apartment to prepare for my working day.
On the way back I walk past a street where people live on the street meters after each other. Sometimes they have a curtain over their heads, sometimes just a bed. Their belongings often hang from the branches of trees, and some have a pet goat in front of their tent. Mothers cook, breastfeed the little ones or sleep while the children run around.
The small children play with stones, help their parents, some walk around half naked and the slightly older ones (about 5 years old) are trained to chase you with an even smaller child under his or her arm and ask for money. They even pull on your arm. I find that terrible!
24-03-2024
Today we drive towards Barsana again to make another attempt to visit the Shri Radha Rani Mandir temple. This time also with R’s niece, Mahima, a super sweet girl who flew in from Hyderabad yesterday. Well, she is a 24 year old woman. We soon find ourselves in a traffic jam. It is completely stuck because the traffic comes from all sides.
Both police and locals try to regulate traffic, pedestrians cross the road by literally walking through the tuck tucks. It’s chaos and I’m enjoying the scene! After half an hour the intersection is reasonably clear again and we can speed up towards Barsana.
It is a lot quieter today in Barsana and Nandgaon, which gives me time to explore and capture the villages themselves a little better. They are cute and friendly villages with nice alleys, especially in Nandgaon!
Today is Holika Dahan Holi, people burn piles of cow pies that are decorated and around the pile the women perform rituals with dedication. It is celebrated with a bonfire that is lit in honor of Prahlad’s victory over Holika and the triumph of good over evil.
When we get back to Vrindavan, Mahima and I go to the Iskon temple, one of the most important Iskon temples in the world. I am now taking a good look at it for the first time and am impressed by its beauty and the intensity of the Krishna chanting makes a deep impression on me!
Thousands of people sing, dance and clap. I’m mesmerized again at how the Indians dance! When we leave the temple around 19:30 PM, the street is even busier. Even walking you can barely get through. Hundreds of thousands of people walk between cars, tuktuks and scooters and nowhere on the street do you see aggression. It’s one big smile wherever you look!
Google Maps takes us via a shortcut into all kinds of dark streets. We start together full of courage and tough, but at a certain point we look at each other and decide to turn around because it is very dark. Along the way we chat quite a bit about her family’s involvement and her tendency to overprotect her. I very carefully compliment her for the desire and steps she is taking towards independence and encourage her to continue in this way.
25-03-2024 Holi Barsana / Nandgaon
This morning we first drive to Barsana because we want to get another Lassie there. Well, especially me. I really liked yesterday’s and it is filling and I don’t feel like eating local food for a while…
It’s not super busy, but it gets intense when it comes to playing with colors and pouring entire buckets of water over each other!
So I make sure we take some detours and hide behind R so as not to get thoroughly wet. After the lassie we set sail for Nandgaon, my favorite village in Bragd district. We stop at the restaurant on the edge of the village where we have been a few times so I can empty my bladder. Because they are officially closed, there is plenty of time to chat and hear stories about Krishna. The man who tells the stories has unprecedented beauty and charisma. I don’t understand him and yet I hang on his (beautiful) lips…
Of course, a Chai and offered lunch should not be missed. It is relaxed and we enjoy the peace and the colors that are subtly smeared on our faces and that we also display on the other person’s face.
The cousin of the owner of the restaurant says that they are going to build a guesthouse behind their house, which should be ready for Holi next year. How cool is this, then we could rent rooms here and you can sit close to the fire both during the day and at night! So we exchange numbers…
We arrive at the temple around 1430:16 PM to wait for a music and dance show that would start around 16 PM. However, at 10 p.m. we ask again and it turns out that it could take a while. We walk towards the car because R is still not feeling well and we are tired of waiting. We leave, slowly bringing our XNUMX day Holi adventure to an end.
What a special experience that I wouldn’t have missed for anything! Satisfied, I unfold my clothes and bags and leave my dusty scarves with all the colors of the rainbow behind on a wall.
Tomorrow I will head back to Jaipur where I will spend 5 nights in a Western hotel to recover from all the hectic dust and impressions!